E-mu Emulator Sampler User Forum for the EIII EII EI and EIII XP

Hi fellow EMU-Freaks,

Yesterday I was lucky to pick up a beautiful example of an EIII locally from a dealer who had the machine laying around in the back of the store for years doing nothing.  :'( 
It's a 8MB model and cosmetically I'd give the machine a 9.5 out of 10. It came with a couple of problems though, which I was aware of when I bought it. First being that the stereo output is dead. I saw DVDborn's post about this problem and I'm hoping that bypassing or replacing the output board relay will take care of this problem.

Secondly, outputs 11+12 have a little bit a "fuzzy" output. I had a similar problem with my EII when I first bought it. It sounds a bit like a bad 3378. I'm going to try to reseat the chips on those channels and do the usual, which I would do on my EII.  If it turns out that the 3378's are bad... does anyone know if and where they might be available for purchase?

The third thing I newly found out: When I try to load most banks on the HD I get the "Not enough memory!" message.  There are 2 banks or so that'll load and play. But I get the memory message with the other banks. Is there a problem with my memory simms?

Thanks for any tips and advice.

George


Update to my earlier post:

I just opened the EIII up for the first time. This looks NOTHING like my EII inside!! This is a whole different animal! I have no idea where what is located!!?? A bunch of cards stacked in a cage.  I noticed one thing... someone already tried to bypass the relay on the output board. It looks like someone soldered a silver wire underneath it connecting two pins. I suppose that's what it is?! Does anyone know what else can cause a completely dead stereo output?

I also found out that contrary to what the seller told me, I do NOT have a 8mb model. It's a 4mb according to the model number which is 6081.  I did a memory check and it shows

preset: 55,412 
sample: 1,567,744
seq.events: 391,936

This is less than what's stated in the manual for a 4mb model, which is:

preset: 55,554
sample: 2,092,032
seq. events: 523.008

Could this mean that some memory simms have been removed or are bad? Is this why I can't load most banks on the HD?

I also was wondering if anyone could sell me a copy of the service manual?

Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

George

Okay....

Did you check the separate outputs ?

========

There is a test procedure, go to :
Master 88
Code : 1358

You chan check your memory and it will tell you how much memeory you've got. As well, you can recalibrate the volume slider, maybe this is the problem !

Look at the menu, yoiu will see !

WARNING : before you do anything, make some software cpoies (yes, two or three) on floppies and CHECK THEM. This will allow you to retrieve the original calibrations if you mess around with the machine.

I have been servicing emu for about 15 years and I ALWAYS did at leat ONE COPY of the software when a machine came to my lab.

Let us know how it gores

MEMORY PROBLEM : You can see and test how much memory you have by typing :

MASTER 88
Code : 1358

Then see the menu and follow the instructions

BEFORE MESSING AROUND : Make some copies of the software inside your machine on floppies (two copies to be secure). If you mess with the calibrations of if there is an incident, you will always be able to retrieve your calibrations.

You can also recalibrate your volume slider. If its not properly calibrated, you will have no sound at the stereo output !

FUZZY SOUND :

I believe this is on the separate outputs.

I don't know how much you have skill, but, according to what you write, you are far over the average.

So, there is what to do : the idea is to swap the two channel boards wich are repectively : voices 1 to 8, and 9 to 16. If you swap the boards, and the channels are faulty, they will be the channels 3 and 4, instead of 11 and 12, you get it ?

To do so : open the machine, take away the front panel and put it aside.
NOTE : see that the front panel flat cable passes theu an opening of the vard cage. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, otherways, the cable mey be pinched and DAMAGED between the front panel and the card cage.

Take the boards away. You will need to untighten the two screws wich are on each side of the card cage.

Swap the two boards and recable everything. Try the machine.

IF YOU DON'T FEEL CONFIDENT, DON'T DO IT !!!

Let us know

Hi Doc-   8)

Thank you for your answer.  I tried to type number 88 in the master module, but once I press the first 8 it takes me to the "special" menu and if I press an additional 8 it takes me to function "Volume Pedal". What am I doing wrong? Thanks.

Regarding the fuzzy output on the individual outs I will try to swap out the cards and let you know if the problem channels "move" with it.

I haven't tried to recalibrate the volume slider because I currently don't have any empty 3.5" floppies to save my "settings", but I will get some and let you know.
FYI, I actually was able to hear audio on individual outputs 1-16 fairly loud (even thru headphones). Hypothetically, if the volume slider was out of whack, would I be able to hear audio on outputs 1-16 but not on the stereo mix output? Just wondering..?!

If the calibration won't resolve the stereo output problem, what else could it be? The D/A converters? Am I screwed if that's the case or are those still available somewhere??

Thanks in advance.

George
P.S. I didn't know you before this, but I'm glad to hear that you're recovering well from your virus.

Hi Guys,

I'm still trying to figure out why I can't access the diagnostic mode. Could it be the Firmware/Software version I have? During the boot process from the HD, the LCD displays "Firmware 1.0" and a few seconds later "Software 2.0"

I also have a floppy with Software V2.3.  When I tried to boot the newer software from the floppy, I still couldn't access diagnostic mode.  When I press Keypad button #8 in the "Special" module, it takes me to submodule "Volume Pedal"?!

Any help appreciated. Thanks.

I am sorry, I apologize, its Master 80, I have lmade a confusion. Its not on the menu. Sorry about that !

Hi Dr. C,

Thanks a lot for the info.  The service manual actually has it wrong too. They also say to press 8 in the Special module.  I was able to do the test and it shows a bad ram module.  I came across a post in this forum that mentioned a place on the web that sells ram modules.  I was going to contact them, but should I upgrade to 8mb while I'm at it? I read that some other chips need to be replaced as well if one decided to do so? Is these hard to find? Thanks.

George

Hi, Fairlight, I wonder, if you could describe the procedure of saving current calibration values, I am confused... Thanks a lot... Do I understand it well that making a software copy also saves current calibration...?

Lubb,

Actually Dr. C made that post. I do not know about that.  Maybe Dr. C could explain more detailed how that works? I'm curious too...thx.

George

Hello to all !

I d'ont have any EIII here, but :

To save calibrations : star your machine with the hard disk. Format a diskette and save the software to it (Master 8-4, if I remember well).
If you want to put the saved calibrations from a disquette to a hard disk, yopu must start your emu with the disquette and then save the software to the hard disk, by Master 8-4.
REMEMBER : save a bank, any bank, an empty one, BEFORE restarting your machine. After then you will be able to delete that bank.

BAD RAM MODULE

Many thanks, dr. C, you made it perfectly clear...So happy to have found this forum... :) lubb

Hola Emuladores!!!

I'm sorry if I'm a little all over the place with my posts as I'm dealing with 3 different problems on my EIII.

Regarding the Memory problem: After testing and switching the boards it seems indeed as if the actual simm is bad. Today I ordered one from memoryx.com and I paid only under $2 including shipping. So that wasn't too bad and hopefully this should take care of that.

The Main Dead Stereo Output problem:   I went ahead and re-calibrated the Volume Slider, but the Main Stereo Output remains dead. As I mentioned in my original post, I noticed that some other genius already bypassed the relay by soldering a silver wire connecting 2 pins of the relay. I assume that's what they were trying to do??!! Or is this silver wire original?  What else can cause a dead stereo output? Anyone?

At this point I'm not even worried about the "fuzzy" output on channels 11+12. I would be a happy man if I just could get the stereo out working...

By the way... Dr. C... Thanx so much for your help so far.  U're da man!!
George

Check pin number 8 on your IC3 chip, (which is to right of Yellow Relay) on my EIII rack if i have it in front of me facing front ways and me looking down on output board at the back then pin 8 is the pin in top left corner of the IC3 chip.

Use voltage meter set at 20v, use one prong to get earth from somewhere in the EIII i usually get earth from big nut at back left of EIII rack.

Then touch other prong onto pin 8 of IC3, I had trouble with my stereo outs and fuzzy noise and this was because there was not enough volts (it should be 5v) going to the IC3 chip.

My Tech found that it was getting something like 4.83v (or something there abouts) he used a pointemeter screw driver to turn up voltage on my power supply and everything is running smooth again.

With it running at 4.83v that was enough to screw up my internal CF and Zip drive from saving properly give it try follow Dr C's & DVDborn's guide on calibrating power supply.

My tech done that same procedure but took his voltage reading from pin 8 on IC3 instead of Yellow wire as we knew it was stereo outs problem and that is usually a problem with IC3 chip not getting enough volts.

I will advise you to take caution if you're not up to doing it then don't as you could easily blow you drives and other stuff if you mistakenly apply to much voltage as well as RISK OF SHOCK!!!

Karl...

ps: might be a good idea to change the relay while your there, if not then follow Dr C's remedy which is to run a yellow wire from pin 8 of IC3 to one of the yellow wires on the jack plug attached to card cage.
I done this also to safe guard myself my EIII is running perfectly no probs.

 

WHY ALL OF YOU DON'T StOP MESSING AROUND ?   ;D

The bad chip doesn't mean its forceably bad !
TYhe first thing to do is to take off the suspicious SIMM, and then, clean the contacs with a soft pen eraser (gum), clean the contacts with a soft brush, and put it back to place.
=====
The IC8 shit....

Don't mess with the power supply adjustment !

ALL THIS HAS TO BE DONE WITH MACHINE OFF AND MAINS PLUG DISCONNECTED

First : put some pot cleaner (for electronics) on the power supply adjustment pot.
Remember the position of the pot and, with a screwdriver, turn it back and forth a few times, to end by putting it at the original position
Take a voltmeter and plug it relaibly to the 5V on the cards somewhere.
Put power on and measure, if needed, by adjusting the pot, set to 5.05 V

Shut the machine down.

Take a 3-4 feet yellow cable, prepare both sides for soldering, on side of the cable will go soldererd on one of the yellow cables coimposing the harness of cables going to the card cage, the other side of the cable will go to pin 8 of IC 3. It will bring +5V to the relay circuitry and everything will work fine.
Some idiots just connect the pins of the relay, wich means it make a huge "Booom" when you power-up. Normally, this 5V is brought by the leftmost of the four 20 pin flat cables going to the jack board.

I have done this mod for dozens of times.

If you have any doubt, just lest me know, don't feel you are going to look stupid.

Hi guys!

This is the same problem we have with an EIII key right now. If anyone could describe where the soldering point should be put on the output / relay board, I am ready to heat up the soldering iron. We haven't been able to locate anything else than dvdborn's image of the service scheme, marked with the red ring.

However for us as no 'real' technicians, it is a mystery knowing where this IC3 point is placed. Underneath the relay, there's four points visible from underneath the output board. Like said, adding a new wire is probably the best thing to do. We also noticed when carefully touching flat cable "B", the second one of four, going to the card cage, sound intermittently comes to the main outs. three levels of sound; 1. super low, 2. medium low, 3. correct level... however, we hear the correct level only for about half a second and it's back to low again. Have tried replacing the flat cable with no difference in results. For us less tech skilled, photos would help a lot. I will send a free copy of Fairlight CMI Legacy II+ (my reason refill / http://bitley.laconicsounds.net - or the Kontakt version to the one helping me with this!)

I've even considered getting a second Behringer MX1602 line / submixer for all the individual outs just to get sound... ;) Getting desperate about playing the EIII here... :-)