Let's hope you get this beast alive again !
If the machine is not doing anything after switching the power on, it is most probably due to a power supply failure. "Doing nothing" should really mean doing nothing. So this even means no mechanical sounds are coming from the drives or no buzz sound is coming from the PSU ? The molex connectors are known to be unreliable, so if the actual mainboard and outputboard are not doing anything this could be caused by bad molex connections, in that case uninstall/clean/install them again.
The "blue capacitor" which looks bad is (as far as I know) not a capacitor but a special resistor.
Anyway, mine is looking bad too ! But a tech guy told me this is normal for such an old machine, this type of component tends to look "burned" after many years of operation.
Like Elm already said, I think you actually have a rev 0 board. Maybe the left board is rev 1, but probably the right one is a rev 0 of 1984 (see inscription on the main board below the memory board).
Replacing the C6 key most of the time is impossible (no spare parts), but it seems you're lucky: the Dutch spare part specialist Senso currently has this key in stock (see
http://www.senso.dds.nl/)
Anyway, good luck !
///E-Synthesist
Hello - yes... the blue device is almost certainly an NTC thermistor acting as an inrush limiter or just possibly a MOV acting as a transient suppressor. These devices are prone to failure with age as they are heavily stressed and NTCs run very hot. If the PSU is completely dead this is possibly the only thing that's wrong with it as the limiter and MOV are some of the first components in line with the mains input. In the case of a failed MOV I'd expect to see the main fuse open circuit too.
If it were me I would be tempted to replace the device and then do the following tech tip. Carefully wire a 60 Watt incandescent mains bulb (not a low energy bulb!!) in series with the live wire to the PSU. Then disconnect the output connector to the EII and wire a 5Watt car side marker bulb to the 5Volt PSU output to act as a dummy load. The mains bulb will act as a safe current limit protecting the PSU and possibly you from the effects of a spectacular failure - I say this as SMPSUs are horribly notorious for going bang whilst being worked on. They are also very dangerous - so make damn sure you don't touch it whilst it's on! If the bulb lights to almost full brightness and stays there then the PSU is very likely to still be faulty. If the bulb likes brightly and then dims - and with any luck your small bulb is dimly lit then the chances are you've fixed it. I repaired a SMPSU from an old E-mu Proteus the other day using this method - it was 20 pence worth of failed cap in the controller in the end. If this doesn't work I'd be tempted to give up and find a modern replacement PSU - this is likely to be much smaller than the original as they are much more efficient these days.
Cheers,
Dan.
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